PC Gaming

I have watched a few reviews mainly into X670E boards and a couple on the B650 boards.
They seem to recommend the same ones on websites:
ASRock X670E Taichi - However it seems ASRock boards are quite difficult to get in UK
ASUS ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming - This is the board I have just purchased.

B650:-
MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk Wifi
ASUS TUF Gaming B650-Plus
 
bsmaff said:
I have watched a few reviews mainly into X670E boards and a couple on the B650 boards.
They seem to recommend the same ones on websites:
ASRock X670E Taichi - However it seems ASRock boards are quite difficult to get in UK
ASUS ROG Strix X670E-E Gaming - This is the board I have just purchased.

B650:-
MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk Wifi
ASUS TUF Gaming B650-Plus
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Yeah. Thanks. 🙏

B650 and I’m good right?! Had no probs with my MSI so it probably will be an MSI board again.

Wanted to the NVIDIA route but man… prices will be high. Even higher as before I guess. New AMDs should be fine I think.
 
Msi is a bit pricey for me, but cant deny it's built quality looks good. My old pc intel 4th gen is using msi board, One of its 4 pin psu to cpu slot got melted but surprisingly still working, lol.
 
PRO_TOO said:
Coming from an AM4 board (tomahawk max 2) with 5800x3d and a 6800xt, I’m planning on getting a RDNA4 card by the end of the year. I’ll be staying with the CPU but want to change the case and board. I want a better airflow in my case. Lian Li might be my choice. What’s a good board I should get then? Don’t need top shelf… but decent. The current tomahawk was fine. Any ideas?
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In terms of cases i recommend the Lian Li O11 Dynamic Evo RGB (Already showed you my PC with this case) or the Lian Li O11 Vision. I think they are both beautiful. If you want good airflow then go with the first one.

In terms of a Mainboard, dont go with a B650.

Diff.jpg

If you want to be prepared for future Graphic Cards go with a B650E. Only the E (Extreme) Versions got PCIE 5.0.
My recommendation is the ASUS ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WIFI. This Board is the best bang for the buck in my Opinion.
 
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All the boards which I recommended which are on websites are all B650E boards.

In regards to case, I always have said it is personal preference yes maybe check out reviews on cooling.
However I think how it looks it more important to the average person as they have to stare at it everyday.
 
bsmaff said:
All the boards which I recommended which are on websites are all B650E boards.

In regards to case, I always have said it is personal preference yes maybe check out reviews on cooling.
However I think how it looks it more important to the average person as they have to stare at it everyday.
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Looks are secondary to me. The machine will be placed on the ground anyway. I’ll be getting a closed case, no glas, no fancy LED’s. Priority is airflow.

When I detached the side panel of my current case, CPU temps in ACC dropped 12 degree. That’s telling imo. When the max was 83 with a 5800x3d, they were at 69-70 with the side being open.

Edit: The MSI 650 is missing PCIE5 slots. So I’m eying the Asus ROG Strix B650E-F now.
 
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In that case if you are not caring about the looks of the case then I would get one which scores highly on reviews for airflow.

My PC looks 'OK' I have the Fractal Meshify 2 XL as I find XL cases make my CPU run over 10c cooler than normal size cases.
The cases I want now are the Hyte Y70 Touch which can't get hold off and the Fractal North XL.
 
PRO_TOO said:
Edit: The MSI 650 is missing PCIE5 slots. So I’m eying the Asus ROG Strix B650E-F now.
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Very good choice! You wont regret it :))

PRO_TOO said:
Looks are secondary to me. The machine will be placed on the ground anyway. I’ll be getting a closed case, no glas, no fancy LED’s. Priority is airflow.
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If thats the case, check the Fractal Design Torrent. Its known to be the best case for airflow you can get.
There are two version. The normal one and a smaller one.
The normal one has already two 180 mm fans in the front and three 140 mm fans in the bottom. I would buy one 140 mm fan for the back additionally.
The smaller one also has two 180 mm fans in the front, but nothing else. You you would have to buy three 120 mm fans for the bottom (or two 140 mm) and one 120 mm for the back (120 mm does not fit in the smaller version).

But be aware, if you are using an AIO cooler, you cant mount it at the top in both cases. I would go with a other case if you watercool your pc (and i recommend this)

Here is a Benchmarks list from Gamersnexus with the best airflow cases. Fans are alle normalized at 27 dBA.
case.jpg


I personally would go with a case where you can mount a 360 AIO in the top. The big advantage is, that all the heat which is caused by the CPU will never be on the inside of the case. It will be transferred into the radiator at the top and will be blown out from there. The Liquid Freezer 3 is by far the best and also one of the cheapest AIOs you can get. I have the RGB Version of it myself and im also cooling an 5800X3D. Before that, i had a Dark Rock Pro 4. The difference with the AIO is insane.
 
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Anyone got a NAS? Currently running plex with all my media attached to my HTPC via an external HDD but it's getting pretty full up. Was thinking about finally getting a NAS, just wondered if their were any recommendations? Criteria is....

- Relatively small footprint (going underneath my TV rack in the living room most likely)
- Easy to use (not really considering a DIY one at present)
- Probably want at least 10Tb
- Relatively cheap

Unsure whether to just go with a 2-bay at the moment, or save up a bit more and go 4-bay to future proof. Any thoughts welcomed :)
 
Hi fellas, I have (maybe) a dumb question.

This week I will have a new PC and new Monitor.
My question is, do I have to be with attention or something with plug in both and launch the PC?

This is my monitor: Samsung Odyssey G7 S32BG700EU Gaming Monitor.

I ask because, it is first time for me that I will have a "complete new" Monitor with an new PC at the same time.
Everytime before I had just a new Monitor or a new PC.

So is there something special thing to do first step, second step and so on? I mean to configure the monitor and PC (windows 11 home).

One thing is, I know I have to plug the Monitor at the GPU and not at the MB. 😸

Help is very appreciated. And please cross fingers that everything will be fine and works 100%!
 
Carles P. said:
Hi fellas, I have (maybe) a dumb question.

This week I will have a new PC and new Monitor.
My question is, do I have to be with attention or something with plug in both and launch the PC?

This is my monitor: Samsung Odyssey G7 S32BG700EU Gaming Monitor.

I ask because, it is first time for me that I will have a "complete new" Monitor with an new PC at the same time.
Everytime before I had just a new Monitor or a new PC.

So is there something special thing to do first step, second step and so on? I mean to configure the monitor and PC (windows 11 home).

One thing is, I know I have to plug the Monitor at the GPU and not at the MB. 😸

Help is very appreciated. And please cross fingers that everything will be fine and works 100%!
Click to expand...
You will need to install new OS, newest latest driver for videocard and possible driver for monitor (if it's exist) for more amount of option during working.
 
Sany023 said:
You will need to install new OS, newest latest driver for videocard and possible driver for monitor (if it's exist) for more amount of option during working.
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Sorry, my mistake. I had forget to tell that the PC have already installed a OS and driver for the PC hardware. And a stress test was made.

I'm not sure, the OS version is a windows 11 home OEM I think, but I don't know how the name is in english for such an windows version. So it is still a custom PC, but build by a company and not from me.

What I mean is. What would be better? The new PC and Monitor plugin the cables and power and so on, and then launch the PC?
Or should I first configure the PC or the Monitor, Or can I configure them twice?

Because I still have my "old" PC and "old" Monitor. I could do plug in first my new Monitor to my old PC (the Monitor have an own OS and could do work like an TV but don't have an TV card) to install a driver and make the settings.
And the same but vice versa.

I hope you can understand what I mean. :) Sorry for my poor english. I'm was born in former GDR and had my first english lesson in my 7th garde in school. :FAIL:;)
 
Carles P. said:
What I mean is. What would be better? The new PC and Monitor plugin the cables and power and so on, and then launch the PC?
Or should I first configure the PC or the Monitor, Or can I configure them twice?
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Wow, you are overthinking this really hard 😅
Doesnt matter. Make sure to use the Displayport for the monitor (and put the cable in the gpu and not in the mainboard port) and activate the 144 hz and Gsync/freesync in the GPU drivers. Sometimes you have to activate the 10 bit color depth by yourself in the GPU drivers too.
 
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Bogo36 said:
Wow, you are overthinking this really hard 😅
Doesnt matter. Make sure to use the Displayport for the monitor (and put the cable in the gpu and not in the mainboard slot) and activate the 144 hz and Gsync/freesync in the GPU drivers. Sometimes you have to activate the 10 bit color depth by yourself in the GPU drivers too.
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:DD I have two left hands...
Ok, thank you to you booth!

Thanks buddy Bogo36, this will help. :)
I heard Christmas will be this year very early.
 
Carles P. said:
Sorry, my mistake. I had forget to tell that the PC have already installed a OS and driver for the PC hardware. And a stress test was made.

I'm not sure, the OS version is a windows 11 home OEM I think, but I don't know how the name is in english for such an windows version. So it is still a custom PC, but build by a company and not from me.

What I mean is. What would be better? The new PC and Monitor plugin the cables and power and so on, and then launch the PC?
Or should I first configure the PC or the Monitor, Or can I configure them twice?

Because I still have my "old" PC and "old" Monitor. I could do plug in first my new Monitor to my old PC (the Monitor have an own OS and could do work like an TV but don't have an TV card) to install a driver and make the settings.
And the same but vice versa.

I hope you can understand what I mean. :) Sorry for my poor english. I'm was born in former GDR and had my first english lesson in my 7th garde in school. :FAIL:;)
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Im with @Bogo36 ’s first sentence. 😊
I so wanna set that up for you. 😂

Also make sure, next to the GPU drivers, you have your latest mainboard chipset drivers installed.

Good luck and enjoy!
 
@Placebo

Not sure if the cheapest country but managed to resubscribe to EA Play Pro in Ukraine for £50.
Only took me going through 4 credit cards till one was accepted - Capital One if curious.
 
bsmaff said:
@Placebo

Not sure if the cheapest country but managed to resubscribe to EA Play Pro in Ukraine for £50.
Only took me going through 4 credit cards till one was accepted - Capital One if curious.
Click to expand...

Ahh nice I'll try that! Do plan to sign up again. Presumably it was Capital One tied to a UK account? I can try Santander or Swedish as well as Transferwise ones but last time I tried every single one failed to go through and my only option was to buy cheap French Euro EA gift vouchers from key sellers so saved a little money that way overall but nothing like £50 sadly :(
 
Placebo said:
Ahh nice I'll try that! Do plan to sign up again. Presumably it was Capital One tied to a UK account? I can try Santander or Swedish as well as Transferwise ones but last time I tried every single one failed to go through and my only option was to buy cheap French Euro EA gift vouchers from key sellers so saved a little money that way overall but nothing like £50 sadly :(
Click to expand...

I found a guide on Reddit which helped.

1. Sign out of EA App - Completely exit program
2. Connect to VPN you wish to use (Ukraine was cheapest for me)
3. Open EA App
4. Select EA Play Pro from store
5. Enter card details - When you select country change from Ukraine to UK (in your case Sweden)
6. Now just go through your collection of Credit Cards and one should allow the purchase. (I had to go through 4 before one finally worked)
7. You will now have EA Play another year at the discounted price.

I went through a few countries and Ukraine appeared cheapest for me.
You may have better luck if you are prepared to try multiple VPN's.

Countries I tried but were all around £80.
Argentina
India
Turkey
Chile
Didn't try anymore as they are usually the cheaper ones.
 
bsmaff said:
I found a guide on Reddit which helped.

1. Sign out of EA App - Completely exit program
2. Connect to VPN you wish to use (Ukraine was cheapest for me)
3. Open EA App
4. Select EA Play Pro from store
5. Enter card details - When you select country change from Ukraine to UK (in your case Sweden)
6. Now just go through your collection of Credit Cards and one should allow the purchase. (I had to go through 4 before one finally worked)
7. You will now have EA Play another year at the discounted price.

I went through a few countries and Ukraine appeared cheapest for me.
You may have better luck if you are prepared to try multiple VPN's.

Countries I tried but were all around £80.
Argentina
India
Turkey
Chile
Didn't try anymore as they are usually the cheaper ones.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks I'll give it a try! :)
 
bsmaff said:
I found a guide on Reddit which helped.

1. Sign out of EA App - Completely exit program
2. Connect to VPN you wish to use (Ukraine was cheapest for me)
3. Open EA App
4. Select EA Play Pro from store
5. Enter card details - When you select country change from Ukraine to UK (in your case Sweden)
6. Now just go through your collection of Credit Cards and one should allow the purchase. (I had to go through 4 before one finally worked)
7. You will now have EA Play another year at the discounted price.

I went through a few countries and Ukraine appeared cheapest for me.
You may have better luck if you are prepared to try multiple VPN's.

Countries I tried but were all around £80.
Argentina
India
Turkey
Chile
Didn't try anymore as they are usually the cheaper ones.
Click to expand...

That didn't work for me, it wouldn't let me add credit cards only PayPal for some reason, and the PayPal payment failed for EA Play Pro, what did work weirdly is via Uzbekistan (Ukraine is down on Surfshark) I went to the EA website and signed up to the basic EA Play via PayPal which went through, then through the EA website upgraded the membership to EA Play Pro, which then went through!

1728219989910.png
 
Placebo said:
That didn't work for me, it wouldn't let me add credit cards only PayPal for some reason, and the PayPal payment failed for EA Play Pro, what did work weirdly is via Uzbekistan (Ukraine is down on Surfshark) I went to the EA website and signed up to the basic EA Play via PayPal which went through, then through the EA website upgraded the membership to EA Play Pro, which then went through!

View attachment 307181
Click to expand...

Too late now but for future reference.
Egypt is the cheapest country to buy from it comes out at under £30.
 
Sami 1999 said:
Damn, I was waiting for 50xx series gpus but if the rumoured prices and performances of these gpus are true, I guess I will skip this gen too.
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Given the high prices of the 4000 series and Nvidia sold them, the prices were completely as expected.

£1500 for a 5080 with a 10% performance increase apparently on a 4090 but also cheaper.
£2000+ for a 5090 is overkill but the card seems to be an absolute beast and many people paid over £2000 for a 4090 on launch - As in UK they sold out everywhere even the high end ASUS/MSI cards which were priced around the £2400 mark.

If people are willing to pay it, then the prices will never change.

Personally since I own a 4090 and absolutely no game struggles on the card then I will skip the generation anyway.
 
Jay-Jay 10 said:
Which rumors? The only thing that might happen is that they go private. But that doesn't change that Ubisoft will still exist. It just means they won't be publicly traded anymore.
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I heard/read they are in absolute shit - Share price has massively dropped.
Star Wars Outlaws was a disaster and didn't sell hardly any copies - The absolute community backlash around the new AC.
The absolute hatred for Ubisoft now in Japan - As one thing you don't do to the Japanese is mess with their history/culture.

Their CEO telling people to get used to not owning games they pay for.

I just heard they are potentially looking to sell up and if the new AC is a flop like Outlaws it could very much be curtains for Ubisoft.
Personally when the new AC flops which it probably will, then someone like Microsoft might come in and purchase them whilst they are at rock bottom.
 
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